General Lee and I have something in common; we both crossed the Mason-Dixon line in search of conquering the closest Yankee turf. Gettysburg and Antietam are actually both not very far from here. For here is the closest place to Virginia and North Carolina where you really feel you have left home, that the surroundings feel vaguely foreign, that you are not in Kansas(or North Carolina) any more. It is only a little over six hours from Carrboro, about fifty miles north of Baltimore.
While this area has its drawbacks, the scale of it makes it ideal for biking. Compared to North Carolina, the scale is vaguely European. Towns are close together, with street grids that do not push you onto the major highways. Except for Hershey, these are depressed factory towns. York has a Harley-Davidson factory, so the locals ride those vehicles a lot, helmetless.
A lot of this looks to me like the set of some working class movie.
Harrisburg had its share of decay but also nice neighborhoods. The state capitol building was fine, but I was not a big fan of the neo-fascist architecture of the surrounding buildings.