Archive for the ‘Louisiana trips’ Category

Until Seattle (and Starbucks) showed superior marketing, New Orleans was the coffee capital of America. I visited New Orleans for the first time while an undergraduate. On that 1976 trip I had Breakfast At Brennan’s as my first real gourmet restaurant meal. I can still remember the intensity of the coffee that accompanied the bananas foster. In 1976 no one served coffee like that back home in Virginia Beach.

Fast forward a few decades. America has changed. Good coffee is available almost everywhere. New Orleans has changed. Independent coffee houses have opened all over the city.

Writers who consider urbanity talk about the importance of a third place, a public setting to hang out that is not your home and not your workplace. On a recent stay in New Orleans I found comfort in cycling for an hour or two or three around New Orleans before sitting alone outdoors at some random coffee house reading (mostly The New Yorker) on my Kindle. These coffee houses are spread over a large area, some many miles apart from others. While traditional New Orleans coffee has been drip coffee with chicory, I always get a latte made with expresso and oat or almond milk. There are a three local chains (CC’s, PJ’s and French Truck) but most New Orleans coffee places seem proudly independent. Most were established in the years after the 2005 Katrina hurricane. I will group them by neighborhood.

Coffee houses in the Lower Garden District (our neighborhood.).

Hi-Volt, a three minute walk from our condo
friendlier and only a five to seven minute walk from our condo is one my favorites: Mojo

There are other coffee houses still within a fifteen minute walk from our condo.

Starbucks, corner Washington and Magazine
Tootie at PJ’s, corner of Magazine and Jackson

on St Charles Avenue a few blocks uptown of Lee Circle
The Vintage on Magazine Street and Seventh Street is a longer walk from our condo but its vibe is sometimes worth the hike. It is one of the few New Orleans places that successfully operates as a coffee house in the morning and a bar at night. They make their own beignets.

The other coffee places are beyond walking distance from our condo, in all parts of the city. Over my week and a half spent in New Orleans I bicycled all over.

Coffee houses in the remainder of Uptown

Cherry Coffee, 4877 Laurel Street

Coffee houses in the CBD and French Quarter

Mammoth Expresso, warehouse district
Maybe my favorite coffee house in all of New Orleans except that it gets too crowded; Envie Cafe at Barracks and Decatur, lower French Quarter
Croissant d’or, lower French Quarter
Backatown Coffee underneath some newer condos on Basin Street

Coffee houses in Faubourg Marigny and Bywater/Ninth Ward

Bywater apparently is attracting hipsters from all over

Petite Clouet, my favorite coffee house in Bywater. The young people running this place (who likely have moved here from somewhere else) are totally on-game, both in making coffee and with customer service.
Darth Vader moving in, corner of Elysian Fields and North Rampart Street

Coffee houses in Treme

Treme, the traditionally African-American neighborhood near the French Quarter, has been gentrifying.

The Flagpole, corner Esplanade and Bayou Road
Also on Bayou Road

Coffee houses in Mid-City and Esplanade Ridge

Hey Coffee is in an industrial area on the Lafitte Greenway just north of Claiborne Avenue
On the Lafitte Greenway just north of Broad Street
On North Carrollton Avenue near the Lafitte Greenway and Canal Street
also nearby, on North Carrollton Avenue near Canal Street
Morning Call dates back to 1870. It left the French Quarter in 1974 and moved to suburban Metairie. Since 2020 it has been at this new location near Cemeteries, on Canal Boulevard. Its big competitor was always Cafe du Monde, which is still very much in business in the French Quarter.
Park Island Brew, on Gentilly Boulevard across from the Fair Grounds
Pagoda Cafe, 1430 North Dorgenois Avenue
CC’s in Esplanade Ridge neighborhood
Fair Grinds Coffeehouse, Esplanade Ridge neighborhood

Coffeehouses in or near Gentilly

In my world this qualifies as diversity. Pontilly Coffee is on Chef Menteur Highway between Gentilly and New Orleans East, across the street from the Baptist Theological Seminary. The clientele is mostly African American. There are biblical quotes and slogans on the interior walls. I have cycled out here and enjoyed this place several times. On my last visit there were several people sitting around doing different kinds of art, holding court.

Metairie/Old Metairie

Metairie, across the line into Jefferson Parish, is New Orleans’ nearest suburb. The closest part, Old Metairie, is little more than five miles from the French Quarter, closer to downtown New Orleans than some parts of actual New Orleans. One can really feel the Red/Blue divide when crossing the Parish line, although Old Metairie is as upscale as anywhere in the New Orleans metro area. In my New Orleans neighborhood of Lower Garden District I sense lots of people are from Somewhere Else and you do not hear the distinct Brooklynesque White New Orleans accent all that often. At coffee houses in Old Metairie you hear that accent constantly, and no one wears a mask. I cycled to the area several times and enjoyed sitting outside, sipping my oat milk latte and reading.

Evolve is further out towards Kenner and the airport, past Causeway Boulevard. It is a nice place but full of unmasked people and no outdoor seating. I paranoidly took my coffee outside and sat on the curb!

Coffee houses in Lakeview

Lakeview is, as expected, near the lake and just inside the New Orleans line from Metairie. It has its own little downtown. While an upscale area it flooded badly during Katrina when the 17th Street Canal failed. Nearly all the small 1940-50’s one story houses that flooded have been replaced by much larger new two story monsters, lined up close together. I rode out there one day with Tootie.

We had coffees sitting on the sidewalk in front of Nola Beans in downtown Lakeview. It is next door to a Starbucks.

We then rode back the seven or eight miles back to our condo.

Tootie and I drove down to our New Orleans second home on about October first and we stayed the whole month. It has been wonderful walking around every morning in our Lower Garden District neighborhood, all these amazing buildings within a hundred yards of our front door. To me it is paradise.

pristine 1850’s restorations one block from our condo
A couple blocks away, an artfully decrepit scene that could be from A Streetcar Named Desire

We rarely used our car. Both of us bicycled to and from the grocery store. Several times we bicycled to restaurants at night.

Tootie on her 1970’s Schwinn Collegiate

I felt a compulsion to bike ride more, to see the whole city! Just about every day that we were in New Orleans I bicycled for two to four hours. On the final day I brought my camera along. Almost all these rides were on the Surly Long Haul Trucker that I now keep in New Orleans. I still don’t really like the heavy feel of that bicycle but I use what I have. This bicycle does feel stable on these terribly bumpy and decrepit streets. This day I left our condo on St Mary Street at about eight in the morning, snapping pictures as I rode.

Directions in the older parts of New Orleans make little sense speaking north or south. They are better described as upriver (uptown) or downriver (downtown). Cross streets go towards the river or away from the river. The three or four hour bike ride I took shown below covered a large portion of New Orleans but by chance mostly excluded Uptown. Other than the French Quarter, Uptown is the area most visitors think of when visiting New Orleans. It is the area in the bottom left on the map below, between Saint Mary Street and Audubon Park. Tulane University is next to Audubon Park. I cycle through Uptown frequently, just did not on this particular day.

The twenty-five mile bike ride I took on the morning of October 27

I left our condo building.

Our building, 1325A St Mary Street

St Mary Street is a one way street going away from the river. I biked a block and a half towards Prytania Street.

looking up St Mary Street

The 1400 block of St Mary Street is by New Orleans standards a somewhat typical block but there is still lots to look at.

1400 block St Mary Street
1400 block St Mary Street
1400 block St Mary Street

I crossed Prytania Street, it was one block further to St. Charles Avenue

1500 block St Mary Street

I had only bicycled two and a half blocks; I crossed over St. Charles Avenue with its famous streetcar on the neutral ground. The tracks are a popular place for jogging.

It was only one block further past St. Charles Avenue where St Mary Street dead ends at a church on Carondelet Street.

corner, Carondelet and Saint Mary St.

I turned right on Carondelet Street. It may change names but Carondelet Street continues about five miles from here all the way downtown through the Central Business District, the French Quarter, Faubourg Marigny, and Bywater. Traditionally this side of St. Charles it is a rougher and poorer neighborhood. It has been gentrifying.

on the left just after I turned onto Carondelet Street.

Cycling two blocks further downtown on Carondelet Street a former milk processing factory was just torn down and trucks were clearing the site for redevelopment.

with the milk facility torn down you can see the high rises of downtown. The French Quarter is just downriver, beyond those tall buildings.

Six or eight blocks further Carondelet Street passes under a freeway. Dozens of homeless people have moved underneath the overpass.

homeless encampment

Now cycling in the Central Business District I could look again at the forty-five story skyscraper formerly known as Plaza Tower. It must have seemed like a good idea when it was built in 1968 but it has been abandoned since 2002. It is in a difficult location and rehab efforts have failed. I still like its style. Its top floors are currently wrapped, presumably to keep debris from falling.

City bicycling in New Orleans is wonderful but one does need to keep one’s eyes affixed to the road. Potholes are everywhere.

barely marked crater in the road, O’Keefe Avenue

I passed by the entrance to the swanky Roosevelt Hotel.

I bicycled across Canal Street, formerly the main downtown shopping street. Its retail is struggling.

this famous Walgreens sign is from the 1930’s

Downriver across Canal Street is the French Quarter. Burgundy Street through the French Quarter is an excellent street to bicycle on. There are almost no bumps or stop signs.

Burgundy Street
Burgundy Street
Burgundy Street, lower French Quarter

The French Quarter gets less touristy the further downriver one goes from Canal Street. During this month of October I had been bicycling to coffee houses all over New Orleans searching for the perfect croissant. Disappointingly, nowhere in New Orleans had a croissant as crispy as those at Foster Street Coffee in Durham NC. The Croissant D’or on Ursulines Avenue in the lower French Quarter came close, and it was nice to sit in its courtyard eating my croissant with an almond milk latte, one pack sugar.

Croissant d’or
breakfast in the courtyard

I got back on the bicycle and headed out.

Looking back uptown in the direction I had come from

I cycled about three miles further downtown, out of the French Quarter, through Faubourg Marigny and then into Bywater, also known as the Ninth Ward.

cycling downtown on North Peters Street
Bywater cottages

I turned around at Poland Avenue where Bywater ends at the Industrial Canal.

Bywater has become trendy. At the turn onto Poland Avenue this building is now an upscale wine bar called Bacchanal.
Poland Avenue
Jack Dempsey’s, old school restaurant on Poland Avenue, famous not for the quality of its food but for the size of its portions!
bar on Poland Avenue

I bicycled back uptown in the direction I had come from but now three blocks over, on Burgundy Street, back through Bywater and Faubourg Marigny. There seemed to be a lot of dog walkers.

early 1920’s monument in Bywater listing names of veterans of World War One, but only veterans from the Ninth Ward, “White” on one side, “Colored” on the other.
house decorated for Halloween

I crossed St. Claude Avenue and headed out St. Bernard Avenue, through an area tourists rarely visit; the Seventh Ward.

Seventh Ward

Heading out St. Bernard Avenue I soon crossed South Claiborne Avenue, a street famous among American urbanists as one of many places where the 1960’s exuberance to build the Interstate Highway System lost its moorings. South Claiborne was and is a center of African-American commercial life in New Orleans. I-10 replaced South Claiborne Avenue’s oak trees with a freeway. The pre-1960 supermarket is still here.

Underneath I-10, the formerly oak tree lined neutral ground of South Claiborne Avenue.
South Claiborne Avenue in the 1950’s (photo from Smithsonian Magazine)

There are current serious proposals to tear down this section of I-10, but as with most such things, it is complicated. Meanwhile, I cycled under the freeway and resumed cycling on St. Bernard Avenue, which is wide and relatively safe for bicycling. St. Bernard Avenue continues for five miles, all the way out to the Lake Ponchartrain lakefront. The further from downtown one gets the newer the buildings become.

back to the present day, my view cycling down St. Bernard Avenue
seafood market, St, Bernard Avenue
early 1900’s houses, St. Bernard Avenue
much newer housing as I neared the Lakefront

New Orleans has its own beachfront, albeit on a concrete beach that almost no one swims from. (Lake Ponchartrain is brackish and extremely shallow; difficult to keep clean.) It does make for a pleasant bike ride.

UNO is on the lakefront with its Modernist style campus. I needed a bathroom so I impersonated a student by walking into one of the classroom buildings.

Looks like a motel! That is not necessarily a bad thing; Liberal Arts Building, University of New Orleans

I bicycled along the lakefront over to West End where hundreds of pleasure boats are moored.

Facing the West End yacht harbor are lines of “boat houses”, a fancy spot to hang out in while you stare at a vessel moored in your living room.

boat houses, West End

I assume this is a working shrimp boat; the twenty-four mile long Lake Ponchartrain Causeway in the background

I started cycling back home, this time through City Park; an enormous piece of land stretching southward from near the Lakefront, originally with four golf courses and two stadiums, including the one where the Beatles played in 1964. City Park was almost all inundated during Hurricane Katrina in 2005 but has been slowly rebuilt and re-defined. Its current sculpture garden is one of the best anywhere. Along Marconi Drive on the west side of the park there is a newish bike path, one of many bayous on my left.

The Marconi bike path runs right by the tennis complex, impressively busy on a weekday morning

As the path through City Park ends I was directed to a bike lane on Marconi Drive as it passes under railroad tracks
I then cycled on Orleans Avenue through the neighborhood called City Park

I was by now very close to one end of the Lafitte Greenway, which stretches almost three miles from near a corner of City Park to the French Quarter. Those who lived and bicycled around New Orleans with me back in the 1980’s would not believe the dramatic change the Greenway has brought to cycling in New Orleans. The Greenway crosses an area of town that none of us ever thought about, or if we thought about it, we thought it as dangerous slums we could never visit.

Lafitte Greenway as it crosses Carrollton Avenue
a coffee house and new apartments lining the Greenway
Lafitte Greenway
Lafitte Greenway
Greenway approaches the CBD and the French Quarter

The Greenway ends at Armstrong Park. I cycled across Basin Street and Rampart Street, then into the French Quarter.

Basin Street, as in “Basin Street Blues”
Second line band warming up for some kind of event, French Quarter

It was less than two miles through the city back to my condo building on St Mary Street.

Cycling up Dauphine Street, French Quarter
Cycling Baronne Street, CBD
Baronne Street passing back underwear the freeway and beside the homeless encampments

On Baronne Street in an even now sketchy area I passed by the building of the late great Uglesich’s oyster bar, open for eighty-one years until 2005.

I took a left off Baronne Street onto St. Andrew Street, my home on St. Mary Street was only three or four blocks away.

For my regular readers I have a couple of news items: Many of my blog posts feature the white 2005 Toyota Prius that I inherited from my late mother Eleanor. Thankfully just AFTER I recently finished driving the Prius 900 miles each way from North Carolina to New Orleans and back: the main battery failed. It needs to be replaced at a cost of thousands of dollars. We are examining our options; it might be time to replace the car.

The other item is that Tootie and I have purchased a second home, a one bedroom condo in a historic house in the Lower Garden District of New Orleans.

View of our condo building from the outside

By myself I drove the Prius down from Chapel Hill to New Orleans, one way twelve or thirteen hours, done over two days. My mission was to get the apartment down there set up, to have a bed and sofa brought in, to get the internet working. While there I had time to do some bike riding.

Most side streets of New Orleans are insanely bumpy from potholes and their slipdash repairs. I have kept a 1970’s fat tired Schwinn Typhoon down there for several years at my friend Kirk’s place. I really enjoy cycling through the New Orleans residential streets but even on that bomber bicycle one finds oneself looking not for the shortest route but the smoothest pavement. I used the Schwinn to bicycle back and forth to grocery stores and the Walmart and Harry’s Ace Hardware, picking up items to set up our new household.

My 1970’s Schwinn Typhoon in the stairwell of our new place
The Schwinn

I bought a cheap pot at Walmart and made some red beans; a New Orleans favorite. I don’t go all-health all the time, but on this day I chose brown rice and Beyond Meat sausage, with New Orleans’ own Crystal hot sauce, and (not pictured) some stir fried curly mustard greens.

I enjoyed biking around the city on the Schwinn. For longer rides I had brought along my Bike Friday. With tiny twenty inch wheels it is deceptively fast. Over three days on the Bike Friday I did three thirty plus mile bike rides.

Metro New Orleans is surrounded by levees. Governments have gotten it together in recent years and put paved paths on many or most of these levees, they make for perfect bike paths. On the first day I cycled about ten miles on New Orleans city streets before I reached the paved path that follows the levee fronting Lake Ponchartrain. The path starts in New Orleans before passing along the Metairie lakefront in neighboring Jefferson Parish.

The levee is so high you cannot see the houses in the city behind it.

lakefront bike path in Metairie, Jefferson Parish.

Suburban Metairie residents clearly pay extra for waterfront property fronting Lake Ponchartrain, but one cannot see the lake as the levee is too high!

Typical of the houses whose backyards front Lake Ponchartrain, just the other side of that grassy space.

There is a reason this coronavirus will not away, some people are not trying hard enough to beat it. Dining at restaurants works if people eat outdoors. It was a reasonably warm day with temperatures in the sixties. I had heard there were good oyster poor boy sandwiches at R&O’s in Bucktown, lakefront near the Metairie / New Orleans line. I passed by there about 11:00 AM and there was a huge outdoor seating area with lots of empty tables. Satisfied that this looked safe, I continued biking along the lakefront all the way to Kenner and back, returning to R&O’s about 1:00 PM, ready for a great outdoor lunch. These outdoor tables were now all filled, but filled with people waiting for a table at the INDOOR restaurant. Apparently R&O will not let you eat outdoors, which is insane. I biked on.

all masked up but not eating, waiting for an indoor table at R&O.

Dejected and hungry, I bicycled back the hourlong ride through the city back to my condo for leftover red beans and rice.

That night I bicycled around my new neighborhood, the Lower Garden District. Our condo is only one block from Urania Street, the first in of a row of nine streets in New Orleans all named after Greek muses. (Urania/Polymnia/Euterpe/Terpsichore/Melpomene/Thalia/Erato/Clio/Calliope.). Near where my friends Tom and Steve had lived in the 1980’s there is a statue of Terpsichore. It was a dicey neighborhood back then, it has gotten safer in the past thirty-something years.

Terpsichore Street

A couple of days later I cycled on a different levee. Starting in Uptown New Orleans near Audubon Park one can now cycle continuously on the Mississippi River levee about thirty miles upriver towards Baton Rouge. I first had to cycle on the streets through four or five miles of continuous older city, mostly nineteenth century wooden houses. Even poorer neighborhoods in New Orleans are stunning to look at.

I joined the Mississippi levee path near the Riverbend Carrollton area of Uptown New Orleans. I have been following this bike path for years and only recently has it been so complete. You can now bicycle on a smooth paved path along the Mississippi River for over thirty miles upriver, starting in Uptown’s Audubon Park, then into Jefferson Parish, past Kenner upriver all the way to Norco.

On this day I set my goal as the Luling/Destrehan Bridge, about twenty-five miles each way. In many areas the river is obviously at a higher level than the land surrounding it.

Just beyond the New Orleans/Jefferson Parish line, with Oshner Hospital on the right.
Ocean going ships on the river on the left

There were indeed a few places to eat and drink within sight of the path, but this one had no outdoor seating even on this sunny day. I did not stop, I had carried a peanut butter sandwich which I ate while cycling.,

Port Side Restaurant in St. Rose LA, upriver from Kenner LA, covers all the food groups.
The levee path went underneath facilities built for bulk loading ocean going ships on the Mississippi River.

Twenty something miles out I arrived at the Hale Boggs Bridge over the Mississippi. The bridge was completed in 1983.

Almost underneath the bridge and right next to the levee is Destrehan Plantation house, from 1790.

I turned around and cycled back towards New Orleans.

On the way back I passed back underneath that other Mississippi River bridge, the Huey Long Bridge, opened in 1935. The buzz is that Huey Long hated the big city of New Orleans so much that he insisted the bridge be built not in New Orleans but about ten miles upriver.

That night back in the apartment I had a to-go roast beef po-boy from Zara’s, a small supermarket Uptown.

I did one final ride the next day, this time on The West Bank. There has always been a ferry across the Mississippi from the foot of Canal Street near downtown and the French Quarter. The ferry is now smaller and faster than before as it now takes only pedestrians and bicyclists. The area across the river from downtown is called Algiers.

Biking from my new place to the Canal Street Ferry

View of the New Orleans central business district from Algiers, the other side of the river. The building in the center, the one with the round rooftop restaurant, was designed by Edward Durell Stone, the same architect who designed the North Carolina State Legislative Building. The New Orleans building, from 1962, formerly the World Trade Center, is being converted to a Four Seasons hotel.
View from the bike path on the West Bank

Most of the West Bank of metro New Orleans is suburban sprawl but a few areas of the West Bank mimic the “real” New Orleans, with 19th century wooden neighborhoods. This is especially true in the older part of Algiers, called Algiers Point.

neighborhood in Algiers Point

The West Bank of the Mississippi has a nice paved path along the levee, where you can watch the ships coming into New Orleans.

Algiers to Gretna

A few miles upriver from Algiers is Gretna, which developed back when there was the Jackson Street Ferry from Uptown New Orleans. Gretna also has a small 19th century residential neighborhood.

older part of Gretna LA

I found the River Shack in downtown Gretna, a bar / restaurant with outdoor seating during a pandemic. For once I was comfortably able to sit down and enjoy a restaurant lunch, in the breeze. I would have gotten the oyster po-boy, but they only had one size, large, and that kind of sandwich does not travel well. I instead got the small cheeseburger with fries, and a beer. It was all delicious.

I spent the rest of the afternoon biking around suburban areas of the West Bank before riding back to Algiers and taking the ferry back to central New Orleans, and then biking back to my new (second) home.

This week I took a daylong bicycle ride with Lyman to the bayou country east of New Orleans.  I did not realize it would be my last ride on a bicycle I have owned since 1974, 46 years ago.

This is what the bicycle looked like during this February 2020 ride from New Orleans.

Background: I have recently come to the self realization that I have an issue with keeping things too long, if that indeed is an issue.  I just keep fixing things and rarely buy new stuff:  bicycles, guitars, automobiles, kitchen pots and pans.  Many of my readers remember the folding bicycle that I bought in 2002 and had ultimately break in half in 2018.    This Lambert bicycle story takes that to another level.

In the summer of 1974 I bicycled from San Francisco to Virginia Beach on a different bicycle, a $95.00 10 speed of the French brand Jeunet.  Accompanying me were the Consolvo brothers David and Bill.   I was young; I turned nineteen on the trip.  The Consolvos were even younger.  The whole seven weeks my French bicycle did just fine but I spent a lot of time envying Bill’s 15 speed Lambert.  His bicycle exuded coolness.  Just a month or two after finishing the cross-country trip, in the fall of 1974 in Virginia Beach I saw a used Lambert for sale and snapped it up.  I do not remember what I paid but it was likely less than $100.00.  I sold the other bicycle and the Lambert became my ride.

Lambert bicycles (whose name changed to Viscount before being bought out by Yamaha in 1978) were manufactured entirely in England,  perhaps along with the Triumph TR7 sports car a last gasp of British manufacturing and design.  Both the Lambert and the Triumph were flawed.  Lambert bicycle frames had Lambert’s own brand of components.  Their sales pitch was “space-age technology that gives the performance of an Italian racing bicycle for much lower cost.”  The straight-gauge chrome-moly steel frames only weighed 3.75 lbs; the complete bicycle about 20-21 lbs, which is light even by modern standards.   Most Lamberts had triple front cranks and sealed bearing hubs and bottom bracket.


Lambert bicycles were high performance and fun to ride but had faults, especially a front fork that could snap in half.  A “lucky” incident for me was that during my fourth year of ownership in 1978 I loaned the bicycle for one semester to my friend Kevin while he was attending the University of Arizona.   The front fork broke off on Kevin instead of me but he somehow escaped injury.  Kevin returned me the broken bicycle while I was in graduate school in nearby Glendale AZ and in 1979 I bought a new chrome steel fork to replace the broken aluminum one.

I continued to ride that bicycle extensively and exclusively for years and years.   I had taken it to Washington College with me for four years, the 1975 yearbook has this picture of me on it.


I spent almost two months in Europe with this bicycle on a cycle tour with my friend Vince in the summer of 1976.  Here I am with this bike in where I think is Paris.  It shows the leather Brooks Pro saddle that had just bought; I had that seat for over ten years before it finally fell apart.


I took this bicycle again to Europe for six weeks in 1981 with friends Tom and Steve.   Even after marrying Tootie in 1983 and living a much more stable life with a full time job the bicycle continued to be my ride.  I rode it 3-4 times per week all during the 1980’s.

By late eighties I had had the Lambert for close to fifteen years and the Lambert’s paint was scratched almost all the way off.  I had replaced the wheels several times.  The Lambert was wearing out.  Hanging around a bike shop on Freret Street in New Orleans in about 1987 a guy offered me a killer deal on an almost-new Italian CIOCC racing bike with double-butted Columbus tubing and Campagnolo components.  (Cinelli stem!)  I am always on the lookout for a deal.  At about $ 175.00 it was such a good price that I failed to notice that the frame was too small for me.

After a day or two I realized I could not ride a bicycle that did not fit me.   I convinced the bike shop guy to cut me another deal; I would take all the components off the CIOCC and sell the guy back the CIOCC frame for $80.00.  I would then install the wheels and components (crank, brakes, pedals, handlebars, etc.) on my Lambert frame.

With all the parts taken off I took the Lambert frame to an auto-body shop in New Orleans and had it painted a pale blue.   The new “Lambert” of 1988 had no more Lambert parts except the original frame.  It had the chrome replacement fork and a full set sexy 1980’s Campagnolo components.

In 1989 I took this bicycle on the 102 mile long Assault on Mount Mitchell.

I had a full time job and a wife and three children by 1992 but I continued to take rides on this bicycle several times per week.  The Lambert was always finicky, always a little unstable.

On an early morning ride in 1996 I left home in Carrboro NC for what was to be a normal fifteen mile loop through the countryside on Dairyland Road.   I somehow failed to properly secure the front wheel quick-release.  Near my house I hit the pavement very hard when the front wheel feel off.  I pulverized my elbow and sustained a concussion.  I managed to heal (I still have pins in my elbow!.)  From then on I took special care with that front quick-release!

In about 2002 I finally did buy a new replacement bicycle (custom-made folding PBW) but the Lambert framed bike stayed in my basement as a standby.   I loaned the Lambert to friends to ride with me on bicycle tours.  Tom rode it Buffalo NY – Toronto in about 2009.   Lyman rode it on the western half of the Erie Canal bike path in 2012.  The Lambert was funky to ride;  I remember warning my fifty-something year old friends “be careful, it is fast but a wild beast.”

Tootie and I have been visiting New Orleans for years since we moved to North Carolina in 1988.  Our friend Kirk very generously offered to let us store bicycles in the crawl space under her New Orleans house.  Since about 2017 the Lambert has been stuffed in that dirty area.  I have taken lots of rides around the New Orleans area with it since then.

The streets of New Orleans are filled with potholes.   The Lambert is not only a light fragile bicycle but it also an unbalanced bicycle.  It only seems safe on flat smooth highways.  If I hit a pothole on the Lambert I would go down.   I eventually felt so unsafe on the Lambert that I bought a fat-tire Schwinn for around town New Orleans riding.

I have also begun to realize that a fragile bicycle in a New Orleans crawl space deteriorates over time. If I wanted to keep the bicycle I have nowhere else to put it.   Back in North Carolina Tootie and I live in a wonderful condominium that has little storage space.   I have proudly de-cluttered my life.  In the back of my head I realized that I needed to stop riding the Lambert.

Early this recent Sunday morning in New Orleans I set out on the Lambert from our short-term Uptown apartment to meet Lyman at his brother’s condo in the French Quarter for our fifty mile ride.  We headed downriver through Faubourg Marigny.  I guess because it was Mardi Gras season Lyman chose to forego a helmet and instead cover his bald head with a beret!

Downriver through the Upper Ninth Ward (Bywater) we crossed the Industrial Canal bridge into the Lower Ninth Ward.   On St. Claude Avenue was this modernist building.


We stopped for breakfast at Gerald’s of Arabi LA, on the border between New Orleans and suburban St. Bernard Parish.  There was a line of pickup trucks outside.  We got seats at the counter.


At the counter Lyman complimented this guy on his hat.   The man said it was a welding hat; he said the hat reminded him that he was proudly a working man.


Lyman has a sense I style that I lack.   Lyman pressed the man about the hat because Lyman wanted one.   The man said he had gotten it at the chain store Tractor Supply in Chalmette, just a few miles downriver.   After breakfast we headed downriver towards Chalmette and the bayou countryside beyond.  We figured we could stop at Tractor Supply store on the way.

We pulled into Tractor Supply.  In addition to welding and farming equipment they had all sorts of farming related magazines.

We found the hats surrounded by welding equipment.  The hats are supposed to go under one’s welding helmet.


Suburban New Orleans including Chalmette streets should win some kind of award for the straightest flattest residential streets in America.

We bicycled far into the bayou country east of Chalmette until we felt like turning around.   On the way back we again passed the Meraux Refinery.



Just past the refinery was this pleasant modernist government building for St. Bernard Parish.

Just after entering New Orleans we biked through the area where actor Brad Pitt has funded rebuilding of an area of the Lower Ninth Ward that was destroyed by Hurricane Katrina.   He hired several world class architects for these small houses, each one different.  The area is colloquially known now as Brad Pitt Houses.

While biking home it all became clear to me.   I am sixty-four years old.  I was having a great time but it is irresponsible for me to be riding this unstable bicycle.  Lyman could help me get rid of it.   He had driven his pickup truck to New Orleans from his home in Austin TX.  He agreed to throw the bicycle in the back.   He would help me find a home for this bicycle by donating it to the Austin organization Yellow Bike Project.  It sounds similar to the organization in Chapel Hill called Recylery.   Volunteers would either fix up my bike for someone or use the parts on other bicycles.   My bicycle could help other bicycles live.

It was a melancholy feeling when I dropped the bicycle off the next day.   I examined it closely one last time.






It was time to say goodbye.